I go to do the new carb/first start/adjust, and I turn both mix screws out to the norm of around a full turn +- (I’ve found it seems, that everyone’s norm on that will vary by about a 1/4 turn) and it will flood every time I try to start it wether it’s trying it at wot or idle, regardless of choke on or off, or air filter in or out. I’ve put on a brand new carb, new fuel lines (I tested the new feed/suction line for leaks after instal), new fuel filter, spark plug, and the air filter is in great shape and clean. I drained all the old gas and put in fresh 91 octane gas mixed at 40:1. I’m thinking we’re good at that point so proceed with it I will. The very first thing I did before any of the rest of this, is I pulled the plug and screwed in my compression tester and I got 125lbs compression. It’s in immaculate shape and it’s only been used in soft flower beds a couple of times, but it has also set for a long time without being started. I’m new here and I just now became a member due to this issue I have with an MTD Yard Machine 25cc 2 stroke tiller, model Y125. This prevents gums and varnishes from closing off small openings. When a gasoline engine of any kind will sit unused for any length of time, drain the fuel from the tank and run the engine until all remaining fuel in the system has been burned through the engine. Lesson learned: always use freshly mixed fuel. That engine still works very well, although I am sure it suffered a little. Turn in the same direction, not back and forth. Then use a wrench with a long handle to slowly turn the engine over. I found advice on the Internet that said to let the engine cool. I had mixed 2-cycle oil with the gasoline, but it was old by the time I was using it. After ten minutes the engine siezed and stopped. Once I used our small 2-cycle garden tiller. Turn the engine over by hand a few times to blow the carbon granules out of the engine. Move the piston to the downstroke position (most distant position away from the spark plug) and knock off carbon deposits with a screwdriver. What cannot get out blocks what needs to get in. In time carbon residue from the burned oil in the fuel mixture begins to close off the exhaust ports. Use the old gaskets or the engine castings as a pattern to cut new gaskets. You may not be able to buy the proper gaskets, but you can buy a sheet of gasket material. Dismantle the engine completely and install new gaskets. Chances are the gaskets have become hardened beyond their ability to seal the engine. After about ten years of use, no amount of tightening on these screws will make a dead engine run. If any of these screws loosen as little as a quarter of a turn air begins to leak into the engine and the fuel/air mixture either is not pushed into the engine on the piston's downstroke or it becomes too lean for the engine to run by pulling in extra air during the piston's upstroke. See the yellow circles on this photo of a weed whacker engine. Then go to the screws that hold the cylinder head to the crankcase body and those that cover the end where the crankshaft comes out of the engine. First check the mounting screws for the carburetor and tighten them. With time and normal vibration, the screws that seal the crankcase from air leaks loosen just a little and air gets into the engine through leaks in the crankcase gaskets. I will assume the user knows to replace the spark plug regularly, to use fresh fuel, and to replace or clean the air filter. Typical problems include hard starting, rough running, a need to adjust the carburetor during use to keep the engine from stalling, a need to rev the engine to keep it from dying, and not starting at all. Many 2-cycle engines have problems and are sent to the junk yard before their time.
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